Monday, January 16, 2017

How To Fix No Sound On TV When Casting To Chromecast From Chrome

The Chromecast is easy to set up and easy to use from practically any device. You can cast to Chromecast using just your browser and if all goes well you will never experience a single hitch with your device. If however you have trouble casting, the help available from Google isn’t going to help you much since it mostly just assumes you haven’t set the device up properly. For users who can cast video to their TVs from the Chrome browser but aren’t getting any audio, the problem isn’t with the Chromecast but with the Chrome browser. Here’s how to fix it.

Your problems are caused by Adobe Flash, the most unlikeliest of culprits. To find out if that is indeed what is preventing audio from being cast to your TV, go to Chrome://plugins. Click the ‘Details’ button at the top right corner and then look for the Adobe plugin. If you’ve been able to play videos normally in the browser you will definitely find the plugin here. What effects the audio casting is the PPAPI/NPAPI setting.

For audio to be cast, the plugin should read the following in the Location field :

C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\Google\Chrome\UserData\PepperFlash\21.0.0.197\pepflashplayer.dll


The Type field should read PPAPI and it should of course be enabled. If the type instead reads NPAPI or a second plugin from Adobe appears in the list with NPAPI in the Type field then this is the problem. Simply disable it so that the PPAPI type is the only one enabled. Restart Chrome and the audio problem should be resolved. If you only see the NPAPI plugin and not the PPAPI one, you will need to install Flash in your browser again.

These are both Flash plugins by Adobe but the PPAPI one comes preinstalled on Chrome. It might accidentally have been uninstalled or disabled which is what causes problems with Chromecast. If you know about a different solution to the Chrome browser not casting audio to Chromecast, let us know in the comments.

Source : http://www.addictivetips.com/web/how-to-fix-no-sound-when-casting-to-chromecast-from-your-browser/

Monday, August 29, 2016

How to turn on, off, and restrict FaceTime on iPhone or iPad

How do you turn off FaceTime?

FaceTime is automatically activated as part of the overall setup process you go through the first time you turn on a new iPhone, iPod touch, iPad, or Mac. If, for some reason, it isn't activated, or if you want to restrict access for your children, or even turn it off entirely, you can do that too.
  • How to turn on FaceTime
  • How to turn off FaceTime
  • How to use parental controls to restrict FaceTime

How to turn on FaceTime
  1. Launch the Settings app from your Home screen.
  2. Tap on FaceTime.
  3. Tap the switch next to FaceTime to turn it on.


FaceTime will start the activation process and you'll soon be able to make video calls.

How to turn off FaceTime
  1. Launch the Settings app from your Home screen.
  2. Tap on FaceTime.
  3. Tap the switch next to FaceTime to turn it off.


If you ever want to re-enable FaceTime, you can just pop back into settings and turn it on again.

How to use parental controls to restrict FaceTime

  1. Launch the Settings app from the Home screen of your iPhone, iPod touch, or iPad.
  2. Tap on General midway down the list.
  3. Tap on Restrictions midway down the list.
  4. Tap on Enable Restrictions if they're not enabled already.
  5. Enter a passcode.
  6. Tap the switch next to FaceTime to disable it.


This will effectively hide the FaceTime app on the Home screen and hide the FaceTime feature in the Phone app for iPhone as well.

To remove the restriction, repeat the above process and toggle the FaceTime slider back to the ON position.

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Best Ways to Free Up Space on Android


Most high-end devices come with a substantial amount of storage space, but if you have a mid-range or low-end smartphone, you may find yourself running out of storage space often, especially if you download a lot of apps or store large media files.

If you get a notification that says “insufficient space available,” don’t panic. There are a number of ways to reclaim storage space on your Android phone or tablet.

Look for what is taking up all your space
The first thing you should do is find out what is taking up storage space on your device so that you can know which method will provide the best results.

1. Fire up the “Settings” app.

2. Tap “Storage & USB” in the list of options.

3. Tap “Internal Storage.”

You will see how much space is used up on your device as well as how much is used up by your apps, pictures, music, images and cached data.

For example, in the screenshot below, my apps and their data are taking up almost 4.5GB on my device, so I know that removing unwanted apps would probably be most effective for me.


You can also explore the other options to see what is hogging your space and delete accordingly.

Delete unwanted apps


There’s no better way to reclaim useful storage on your device than to remove old, unwanted apps or games. If you have been using your phone for a while, the chances that you’ve accumulated a lot of junk apps on your device is rather high, so take some time to remove the stuff you don’t need so that the space gained can be put to better use.

1. Launch the “Settings” app on your device.

2. Scroll to “Applications” and tap on it.

3. Tap the app you want to remove.

4. Tap “Uninstall” to remove it.

Unfortunately, you cannot remove pre-installed apps using this method.

Clear the app cache

Most apps cache some data on your phone’s internal memory, and as time passes the size of your cache will increase. In fact, while writing this article, I noticed my cached data has grown to over 1GB in size.


Just click the “Cached data” option to clear the cache of all your apps or visit the applications menu to delete cached data on a per-application basis.

Move your data to a Micro SD Card

The easiest and most straightforward way to increase your phone’s memory is to buy and install a micro SD Card if your device supports it. SD Cards are fairly cheap, and some modern smartphones support up to 128GB in portable memory.


Be sure to confirm the maximum storage capacity your phone can handle before purchasing an SD Card so you don’t buy something you cannot use. Once you have your SD Card installed, simply move your media files and other large documents into it using your favourite File Manager app – that should free up a significant amount of space on your device’s internal memory.

Move large apps to an SD Card

Moving large apps to your removable storage is another great way to free up space on your android device. I don’t think you can do this on recent versions of Android such as Lollipop and Marshmallow. However, if you happen to be running Android Jelly Bean or Kitkat, the option to move apps to an SD Card should be available.

Apps that come pre-installed on your device cannot be moved this way, and some apps may not work properly if you move them to the SD Card, so you need to be careful when exploring this option.

Use a cloud storage


Another option that can help you recover space on your internal memory is to use a cloud storage service for your files. For example, you can keep your documents in Google Drive and use Google Docs to access them whenever you need them.

Most Cloud services also allow you to automatically back up your photos, so that permits you to delete the local copies which in turn frees up space on your device. As an added bonus, you can always access files stored in the cloud, even if you lose your phone.

Wrap Up

I hope this article has helped you reclaim some valuable storage space on your device. If you know better ways to free up space on an Android device, tell us in the comments below.

Simply Encrypt Your Personal Files Without Any Software



Encrypt your personal data without any application/softwares. In this instructable we are going to rename the extension of the file. Then the system will assume it as unknown file type. This trick will Works in all platforms.

Step 1: Select your files and rename the extension





Using file Explorer in my android phone. I renamed the extension of "file.txt" to "file.mp". (use can other extensions mp3,png ,rar etc ) Then the system will assume it as unidentified file. We can open it by renaming to original extension or by using "open as" option. For large number of files we can use ES file Explorer since it has batch renaming option.

Step 2: For windows


In Windows->open the Explorer ->view option -> select file name extention. 

Enjoy encrypting. 

Hint:Remember the original file extension.

How To Add and Customize Watch Faces in watchOS 3


There’s no third party watch faces (yet). But Apple did just add 3 brand new watch faces in watchOS 3 – Minnie Mouse, Numerals, and Activity. And now you can easily switch between the watch faces, simply by swiping in left/right from the edge of the screen.

3 watch faces doesn’t sound like much. But Activity face has two version and all of them are customizable at length. So let’s talk about how to get them on your wrist.


Face Gallery in Watch App

When you launch the Watch app in iOS 10, you’ll notice there’s a “Face Gallery” tab. From here you’ll be able to explore and add all the new (and old) watch faces. In fact, you can do all the customizations from the Watch app itself.

When you go to the Face Gallery, you’ll see a section called New in watchOS 3.


You’ll see all the new watch faces here. Tap a watch face to see more information. Then tap “Add” to add it to your Apple Watch. The watch face will be added to the end of the list. You can customize the complications and colors from here.

Then go to “My Watch” tab and you’ll see the “My Faces” section. Swipe to the end to see the watch face you just added.


Tap on it and you’ll see a preview, along with all the customization options.

If you want to reorder the watch faces or delete one, go back to “My Watch” tab and besides “My Faces” section you’ll see the “Edit” button. Tap it and tap the red “–” button to delete a watch face. Use the handlebars to rearrange them.


Pro tip: Take some time to arrange the watch faces you decide to go with here. Because in watchOS, switching to a watch face is as easy as swiping. So you can easily run a Modular face at work and switch to Activity when you’re working out and to Numerals when you’re going out. Also remember, you can’t rearrange watch faces from the Watch itself.

On Apple Watch

You can, of course, do all of this on the Apple Watch as well.

Force Touch on the watch face and you’ll see a carousel of all the watch faces.


Swipe to the end of the screen and you’ll a “+” button.


Tap it and you’ll now see a list of all available watch faces. Use the Digital Crown and go to the bottom of the list to see the new watch faces.


Select one and they’ll be added to the end of the list.

Sadly, there’s no way to reorder the watch faces from the Watch itself. To do that, you’ll need to use the iPhone app.

You can delete a watch face by swiping up on it and tapping the “Delete” button.

To customize a watch face, tap the “Customize” button.


Swipe between the pages to select different complications and views.


Use the Digital Crown the switch between the available options.

Once you’re done customizing and arranging, click the Digital Crown button once.

What Does Your Watch Face Look Like?

Currently, my watch face is Activity Analog. I love using the Watch as a fitness tracker. Plus, this watch face just looks damn cool. With the colorful circles, and the retro analog dial. What does your watch face look like? Share with us in the comments below.

Source : http://www.iphonehacks.com/2016/08/add-customize-watch-faces-watchos-3.html

Tuesday, August 23, 2016

How to Easily Restore an Old Family Photo Using Photoshop


Photoshop is the most powerful image editing software around. There’s very little you can’t do with it. The only issue is that it’s not the easiest app to learn to use. Luckily for you, that’s where we come in. Today I’m going to show you how to repair an old photo in Photoshop.

Everyone has old family photos lying around. If they’ve been sitting in a box for a few decades, though, they’ll be discolored, faded, and probably scratched or bent. With Photoshop, you can make them look as good as new.

For this article, I’m going to assume you already have a basic understanding of Photoshop’s major tools and how to use them. I’m going to focus on strategies rather than the minutiae of the spot healing tool. If you don’t feel you’re at that level, you should check out some of these great Photoshop courses, they’ll quickly get you up to speed. Repairing old photos is a great way to improve your Photoshop skills; you’ll be using the same tools as normal, just in a slightly different way.


Let’s get started. The image I’m using comes from Flickr user SimpleInsomnia. It’s a shot of a family picnic in the woods from around 1920. You can use an image of your own or one you find online to practice with.

Identify the Problems

Before starting, you’ll need to digitize the photo you’re working with. If you’re using a photo of your own, you can either scan it or carefully take a photo. Once you have it on your computer, import it into Photoshop.

The first step is to make a plan. You need to inspect the image and work out what you can realistically do. You can only work with the data that’s already in the image; if a portion of the picture is missing, it’s very hard to add it back in. My plan is below.


This image is far from the worst I’ve seen but there’re quite a few issues. The biggest one is the crease right across the main subject. There are also dozens of small dots, flecks, and hairs scattered across the image that need to be cleaned up. I’m not a big fan of the border either. Finally, it’s faded and discolored which needs to be fixed.

Once you’ve got a plan, it’s time to start fixing things.

Fix the Small Details

Duplicate the Background layer so that you’re not working on the original pixels; it’s important to never do anything destructive to the image when you’re editing.

When you’re repairing an old image, the first thing to do is fix the small problems. All the little flecks of dust, small printing errors, and the like. There are two tools you’re going to use to do it:
  • The spot healing brush.
  • The healing brush.

The spot healing brush is better for removing small spots. It automatically selects it’s source area and blends it in with the surrounding pixels.

The regular healing brush is the same except you can set your own source area. This makes it better for removing anything that’s at a transition between two objects, or where you have to be more careful.


Work your way around the image removing any problems you see. If something looks like it’s going to need more than just a healing brush, ignore it for now. The aim is to get the easy stuff out of the way.

Fix the Big Issues

Once you’ve done that, it’s time to address the bigger issues that a quick pass with the healing brush couldn’t fix. These are going to be things like rips, tears, and creases that affect the main subjects of your image. For me, it’s the crease that runs right across the man in the center. To fix these you’re going to mainly use two tools:
  • The healing brush.
  • The clone stamp.

The healing brush, when used carefully, can go a long way towards removing big problems. It’s great on areas where there are simple or repeating patterns. It only comes up short when there are complex transitions or patterns.

The clone stamp takes one area and transfers it directly to another. This makes it the perfect tool for dealing with difficult areas. You have total control.


For fixing the big problems, the key is to work slowly. In the video that comes with this tutorial, you can see that I take my time with the big crease. When I don’t like how something I’ve done looks, I undo it and try again. The three strategies you’ll use are:
  • With the healing brush, sample an area of similar texture and paint over the problem. This is what I did with the crease where it covers the background.
  • With the clone stamp, copy pixels directly into place. This is what I did to fix the lapels of the man’s suit.
  • With the clone stamp, copy pixels to a new layer, transform them into place, and mask them in. This is what I did with the complex transitions like the man’s sleeves and tie.


With these three strategies you’ll be able to fix almost any problem. Watch them in action in the video:


Fix Tone and Contrast

Once all the spots, creases, rips, and tears have been dealt with, all that’s left to do is fix the color, tone, and contrast problems. For most images, you’re going to need to:
  • Convert the image to black and white.
  • Add contrast, set a new black point, and set a new white point.
  • Sharpen the image.

To convert the image, add a Black and White adjustment layer. Since the image was shot in black and white, it’s just that it’s yellowed with age, you don’t have to worry too much about the conversion.


Next, add a Curves adjustment layer. Most old images are going to have faded blacks and darkened whites. You want pure black and pure white in most images so set your black and white points to whatever value adds them. You can also add a touch of contrast.

Finally, some details will have been lost over the years. Create a new layer and merge everything visible to it. Add some sharpening with a Smart Sharpen filter. You can mask it in so it only affects the main subjects. For my image, I added two sharpening layers: one strong one that affected the subjects and one lighter one that affected everything.


With that done, the only thing left to do is crop the image. I cropped mine to remove the border and minor flaws around the edge of the photo but you can crop yours where you like. Once you’re done, save the image and you’re finished.

General Tips

Following the steps above will help you fix almost any old photo. When you’re working, there are also some general best practices:
  • Work zoomed into 100% when you’re cleaning spots but zoom out so that you can see the overall effect you’re having. If the problems are only noticeable when you’re zoomed all the way in, you can probably ignore them.
  • You’re repairing an image, not editing it for a magazine cover. It’s okay if it still looks like it was shot 50 years ago — it was! Don’t push things too far.
  • The most important part of the image is the subjects. Spend your time fixing the problems that affect them; fix the issues with the background quickly.
  • Don’t be afraid to undo something if it doesn’t look right. It normally takes a few tries to get a cloned section to fit perfectly.

Wrapping Up

Repairing old photos in Photoshop uses all the tools you’d use to edit a portrait, you just use them in a slightly different way. Fixing old photos is a great way to really come to terms with what they can do.

Once you get down to it, it’s surprisingly easy to take an old family photo and make it look as good as new. If you’ve found a box of old family photos — maybe from something like your parents’ wedding — it can be a great present to clean them up and get them printed.

If you’ve any questions about the tools or techniques in this article, please ask away in the comments. I’m happy to help.

Monday, August 22, 2016

How to get the Android Nougat update for your Nexus device right now


Google on Monday announced that Android Nougat will begin rolling out to Nexus-branded devices over the coming weeks. The latest version of the Android operating system adds dozens of new emojis, multiwindow support, direct reply from notifications, improved battery life and other features.

In addition to the Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, Nexus 6, Nexus 9 and Nexus Player, the update will also be available for the Pixel C and Android One devices.

Here's how to check if the update is available on your Nexus device:
  1. Head to Settings
  2. Scroll down and select About Phone
  3. Click on System Updates
  4. Tap the "Check for update" button

How to jumpstart the update

Don't want to wait for the update? We have confirmed that those users who are enrolled in Google's Android Beta Program are being updated to the final version before others. You can sign up for the program here, click Enroll device and follow the same steps to check for an update as listed above. You should see the update available for download within a few minutes.

You can then unenroll from the program once you have installed Android Nougat. This method worked for me on a Nexus 6P and didn't erase my personal information or apps. We have also confirmed it works on the Nexus 5X.

How To Import/Export Playlists & Tracks From One Spotify Account To Another

Spotify has been around for quite some time now. As far as music streaming services go, it’s one of the bigger names in the market that’s been able to hold out against Tidal and even Apple Music. Like any modern-day music service, it lets you create playlists but it falls oddly short when it comes to importing or exporting playlists. Realistically, you aren’t going to be able to export a playlist from Spotify to Windows Media Player or iTunes. It’s not for a lack of mechanism but more because it’s impractical. You might need to export your playlist from one account to another, perhaps when you want to share it with a friend. You might also want to back it up, just in case. At best, you can select and save links to individual tracks in a Spotify playlist in a text file. SpotMyBackup is a free web app that lets you export and import playlists and tracks between two Spotify accounts. It acts as an intermediary responsible for exporting everything to a JSON file, and later importing it. Here’s how it works.

Visit SpotMyBackup and sign in to your Spotify account. Allow it access to your data and wait for it to detect how many tracks and playlists you have.

Unfortunately SpotMyBackup doesn’t let you choose to export/import either tracks or playlists. It also doesn’t let you choose individual playlists to export. It’s an all-or-nothing deal. Once the tracks and playlists load, click the ‘Export’ button to export playlists and tracks to a JSON file. This file will download to your local drive.


To import the file, click the ‘Import’ button. If you want to import the playlists and tracks to a different account, sign into it first before you  click the ‘Import’ button.

When you click the ‘Import’ button, SpotMyBackup asks you to select the JSON file you exported. Browse and select it. It takes a few seconds for it to import the playlists and tracks to the account.


That’s all it takes. If you’re looking to import/export individual playlists, your choices are very limited. The easiest method is to copy the URLs of all tracks in the playlist you want to export for individual lists. Of course, you can always share a link to the playlist with friends which is easy enough.

Friday, August 19, 2016

How to Use the Windows Performance Monitor Like a Power User


Do you feel like your PC is sluggish and unresponsive? It could be due to any number of factors — too many apps running at once, old or weak hardware, hidden malware on your system, etc. — and the hard part is pinpointing which ones apply to you.

The good news is that Windows has a ton of useful diagnostic tools and one of them is something called the Performance Monitor (not to be confused with the Reliability Monitor). Using this can really cut down your troubleshooting times.

Here’s a quick but complete introduction that includes why you should use it and how to get started.

How to Launch the Performance Monitor

In Windows 10, you’ll find no fewer than five ways to access the Performance Monitor. I personally only use the first method, but feel free to use whichever one is most familiar and comfortable to you.
  • Via Windows Search: Open the Start Menu, search for performance monitor, and launch the Performance Monitor (which should be labeled as a Desktop App).
  • Via Administrative Tools: Open the Control Panel and navigate to System and Security > Administrative Tools, then double-click the Performance Monitor shortcut.
  • Via the Run Prompt: Use the Windows key + R shortcut to open the Run Prompt (one of many Windows Key shortcuts to learn), then type perfmon and click OK.
  • Via the Command Prompt: Use the Windows key + X shortcut to open the Power User Menu (one of many Windows superpowers to learn), then click on Command Prompt. In the command line, type in perfmon and hit Enter.
  • Via Windows PowerShell: Launch PowerShell using your method of choice, then type perfmon and hit Enter. This method is most useful if you’re already a regular PowerShell user.

Once the Performance Monitor is running, don’t be intimidated by its not-so-friendly interface. Here’s our step-by-step look at what this tool can do that’ll ease you into it all.

1. Monitoring All Kinds of Data

By default, the Performance Monitor starts off with one data measurement: Processor Time. This shows what percentage of your CPU’s maximum power is being used on a moment-to-moment basis, or in other words, how hard it’s working at any given moment.

But you can monitor hundreds of other stats on your system if you want to. The Performance Monitor allows you to add and remove “counters” to the board (a counter is just another word for “thing you want to monitor”). This flexibility is what makes this tool so useful.

So even though you can use the Task Manager for its performance overview, this is a much better tool to use when you’re specifically trying to diagnose a particular problem.


Feeling like you don’t get it yet? That’s okay. Let’s explore some of the different counters that you can add. This should help you get a better idea of what counters are and why they’re helpful:
  • Memory | % Committed Bytes in Use: Tracks what percentage of your RAM is currently committed (“in use”). This should fluctuate as apps are opened and closed, but if it steadily increases, it could indicate a memory leak.
  • Network Interface | Bytes Total/sec: Tracks how many bytes are sent and received over a particular network interface (such as Wi-Fi or Ethernet). If this ever gets above 70% of an interface’s bandwidth, you should consider upgrading.
  • Paging File | % Usage: Tracks how much of your system’s paging file is being used. If this is consistently high, you should consider increasing your physical RAM or at least increase the size of your paging file.
  • Physical Disk | % Disk Time: Tracks how much of the hard drive’s time is spent handling read and/or write requests. If this is consistently high, you should consider upgrading to a solid state drive.
  • Physical Disk | % Disk Read Time: Same as above except only for read requests.
  • Physical Disk | % Disk Write Time: Same as above except only for write requests.
  • Processor | % Interrupt Time: Tracks how much time is spent by your CPU handling hardware interrupts. If this is consistently above 10-20%, it could indicate a potential issue in one of your hardware components.
  • Thread | % Processor Time: Tracks how much of your processor’s capabilities are being used by an individual process thread (an app could have multiple threads). Only useful if you can identify which thread to monitor.

Note that counters are conveniently categorized by the Performance Monitor, which is why each of the counters above has a prefix. These categories come in handy when you want to set up Data Collector Sets (more on this below).

You can also add an entire category of counters to the monitor instead of picking single counters at a time.

Pro Tip: You can create your own performance counters using languages like Visual Basic, C#, F#, as well as the PowerShell. Instructions for this are beyond the scope of this article.

2. Creating Data Collector Sets

Let’s say you want to monitor your system’s memory usage every week. Isn’t it such a hassle to open the Performance Monitor and add each of the counters you need every time?

What if you want to monitor memory usage, data drive usage, network usage, and Windows Search Indexer performance? Isn’t it an even bigger hassle to swap out counters one by one by hand?

That’s where Data Collector Sets come into play.

A Data Collector Set is basically a group of different performance counters that can be saved so that you have quick access when you want to monitor a specific aspect of your system. They can also be used as templates when creating new Data Collector Sets.

Windows 10 comes with two predefined sets. You can find these in the sidebar under Data Collector Sets > System.
  • System Diagnostics: A detailed set of counters that track and log all kinds of deep system information. It runs for 60 seconds before automatically shutting itself off. It can let you know if, for example, some of your hardware might die soon.
  • System Performance: A detailed set of counters that track information that’s pertinent to processors, hard disks, memory, network performance, and kernel tracing. It runs for 60 seconds before automatically shutting itself off.

What does it mean when a Data Collector Set “runs for 60 seconds”? That’s the great thing about using sets: they run in the background and only collect information while running. You can schedule them to start or stop according to different conditions (more on this below).

So let’s walk through the process of creating your own custom Data Collector Set.

In the sidebar, right-click on Data Collector Sets > User Defined and select New > Data Collector Set.


Give it a name, such as “Network Performance” or “Memory Leaks”, and make sure you select Create manually (Advanced) to set it up from scratch. Click Next.


When asked about what kind of data you want to include, the simplest would be to select only Create data logs > Performance counter. Click Next.


Now you get to determine which performance counters are going to be used in this set. Click Add… and select the ones you want and however many you want.


Important: Before clicking Next, make sure you set the Sample Interval to 1 second. This determines how frequently the Performance Monitor will take a “sample” of your counters. If the interval is too long, you could miss important details between samples.

The data that’s collected by the set needs to be stored somewhere so you can analyze it at your convenience. The default location is fine, or you can move it wherever you want. Some even put it right on the Desktop.


Lastly, you can choose under which user this set will run when it runs. By default it runs on the system that’s currently active, but you can click Change and set it to a specific user regardless.


Select Save and close and click Finish.

And there you have it! Your first Data Collector Set is done. Right-click on it in the sidebar and select Start to start it or Stop to stop it. At this point, starting it will make it run forever (until the system shuts down).

Setting a Run Duration
Here’s how to set a specific duration on it so that it only runs for, say, 60 seconds or 1 hour. First, right-click on your Data Collector Set and select Properties.

Navigate to the Stop Condition tab. Here you can set an Overall Duration for the set so that it automatically stops when the duration is met. A common duration is 60 seconds.


Scheduling Automatic Runs

If you want to automatically monitor your system in the background at regular intervals, you can let the Performance Monitor handle that for you. Right-click on your set and select Properties.

Navigate to the Schedule tab and you’ll notice that you can set up multiple conditional triggers for when your set actually runs. Click Add to get started with your first one.


Leave the beginning date as it is and ignore the expiration date (unless you want this schedule to only apply during a certain time period). Pick which days should run the set and at what time it should run.


If you want to run at different times depending on the day, that’s when multiple schedules come in handy. So maybe Schedule 1 runs the set at 3:30 AM on Saturdays while Schedule 2 runs the set at 9:00 AM on Wednesdays. It’s a bit of a hassle, but it works.

3. Viewing Your Data for Analysis

Once a Data Collector Set has finished running, you can load up its log file into the Performance Monitor, so you can visualize all of the information it tracked.

Click on Performance Monitor in the sidebar to view the actual monitor, then click View Log Data in the toolbar.

Under the Source tab, select Log files as the data source, then click Add and browse to the location where you saved your set’s data and select the file (it should be in .BLG format).


Next, navigate to the Data tab. With your log file loaded, this is where you can pick and choose which data points you want to view in the monitor. Click Add and you’ll be able to choose from counters that were tracked in your log data.


Click Apply, then click OK.

The 5 Different Data Viewing Formats

By default monitor data is shown as lines as can be seen in earlier screenshots in this article, but you can also view the data in other ways. The screenshots below show the same data in all five ways.

Lines


Histograms


Reports


Areas


Stacked

Others Ways to Boost PC Performance

At the end of the day, the Performance Monitor is just that: a monitor. It’s only good for identifying issues, not fixing them — but as far as monitoring goes, nothing is better. It’s a must-use tool for Windows power users.

Note also that the Performance Monitor isn’t a panacea. Your PC’s slowdown could be caused by a number of other issues as well. If you’re on Windows 10, there are several operating system specific tweaks and tips that you can use to boost speeds from start up to shut down.

If your system is still slow, you may want to benchmark your hardware. Hardware bottlenecks are one of the biggest reasons for a slow PC.

Have you used the Performance Monitor before? If not, will you start now? Got any other tips? Let us know in a comment down below!